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	<title>Installing a wood Floor &#124;how to flooring &#124; how to hardwood floor</title>
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		<title>DIY  Flooring  Floor Heating Systems</title>
		<link>http://www.installhardwoodfloortips.com/diy-flooring-floor-heating-systems-2/</link>
		<comments>http://www.installhardwoodfloortips.com/diy-flooring-floor-heating-systems-2/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 14 Feb 2011 02:09:26 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Robert Mccormack</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[DIY Flooring Floor Heating Systems]]></category>

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<h2>DIY  Flooring  Floor Heating Systems</h2>
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One of the more recently popular technologies in flooring is a floor heating system. But the idea goes back thousands of years. The Romans are well-known for having a system to warm floors under marble. Modern systems have the same goal, but perform differently.<br />
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Floor heating systems today generally come in one of two types: electric and radiant or tube.</p>
<p>Electric floor heating systems use a layer of material embedded with wire mesh or other conducting material. Electricity passes through the mesh and that heat is slowly conducted up to the surface where it keeps your feet and, to a degree, the room warm.</p>
<p>At first blush it doesn't sound very safe, especially in areas like the bathroom or kitchen where liquid on the floor is a common occurrence. In fact, electric floor heating systems are as safe, or safer, than an electric blanket. <iframe align="left" style="padding:5px" title="YouTube video player" width="300" height="255" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/ubs38mhIPM0" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe> The mesh is well insulated and the floor material itself - whether wood, ceramic, vinyl or other - adds an even larger safety factor.</p>
<p>Electric floor heating systems cost a few hundred dollars to install in the average bathroom, but they typically operate on a few cents per day worth of electricity. Depending on the size and model, they can add considerable heating ability to the bathroom. Kitchens tend to be more open and they'll do well on the floor and provide some area heating.</p>
<p>Radiant floor heating systems have the same goal - to warm the floor and room. But they operate very differently. Whether they circulate air or water (both are technically fluids), they radiate warmth through a series of tubes. Those tubes can be installed either above floor or below floor.</p>
<p>Above floor systems are not literally above the floor. You don't walk on the heating system. Rather, they are installed above the sub-floor such as the plywood over a concrete floor but below the actual walking surface.</p>
<p>Below floor systems reside below or, more usually, in the sub-floor. Embedded in a series of panels or grooves, the tubes snake throughout the entire area a few inches apart. Sometimes the tubes are laid at the same time as the wet concrete. Reflective material is usually installed underneath the tubes, to direct the heat upwards.</p>
<p>In all systems, the effect is to take advantage of two things: (1) heat rises, (2) cold through the feet tends to make the whole body feel colder.</p>
<p>Heat from the mesh or tubes heats the surrounding material. Also, as warm air rises, it has to start at the floor. So, the floor is kept warm, which is a universally pleasant feeling on the feet. Nobody likes stepping out onto a cold bathroom or kitchen floor. It continues upward where, depending on the system, it warms the room from a few degrees to any temperature desired. Many radiant heating systems will keep an entire large area very comfortable without any supplemental heating from another home heating system.</p>
<p>Among the advantages of both are the absence of any air flow from the outdoors that has to be heated, as is the case with many forced air systems. They're also unseen. There are no heat registers or vents. That gives the room a very clean look and makes possible heating in the kitchen where it can be difficult to locate vents.</p>
<p>Which is best depends on local factors of cost, quality of installation and so forth. Radiant heating can be quieter, since electric systems can sometimes generate a low hum. But fluid moving through a radiant system can be heard, too, if the system isn't of good quality.</p>
<p>Shop around and you'll quickly find a dealer that can offer just the floor heating system you want.</p>
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		<title>DIY  Flooring Caring for Hardwood Floors</title>
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		<pubDate>Mon, 14 Feb 2011 01:54:42 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Robert Mccormack</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[DIY Flooring Caring for Hardwood Floors]]></category>

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<h2>DIY  Flooring Caring for Hardwood Floors</h2>
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<p>Hardwood floors represent a substantial investment. But they will reward homeowners with decades of beauty and wear only if they're properly maintained. Fortunately, that requires only a modest effort.<br />
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Preventing the gradual erosion of the surface is the most important first step. Dirt and small pieces of rock or sand are the most likely culprits to do the damage. If entranceways aren't provided with outdoor mats and indoor throw rugs, that material is easily tracked into the home.</p>
<p>The resulting grit doesn't just create an unattractive appearance. It acts like sandpaper, causing micro-abrasions in the wood as it gets walked on. Despite all precautions, some will inevitably find its way onto the floor. The only cure is to keep hardwood floors well cleaned.<br />
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A broom will take care of the large material, but a soft dust mop is gentler on the surface. The bristle material on the broom doesn't cause any damage to a well-coated hardwood floor, but because a downward force is applied when using one, those small pieces of grit tend to get ground into the surface as they are swept into a pile.</p>
<p>Vacuum cleaner bristles on the rollers have much the same effect. Be sure to set the vacuum cleaner to 'floor' setting before use on a hardwood floor. That way particles get lifted up from the surface rather than dragged across it.</p>
<p>Even after broom and vacuum work are done, dirt will remain on the surface. A quick wet mop will take care of that. But make sure it's only moist, not wet. Water that remains on even a treated surface for a few hours has several disadvantages.</p>
<p>Apart from providing a medium for mildew growth, any dust in the air that falls onto the moisture will tend to coagulate and create miniature mud particles that soon dry out. Those are then ground into the surface, creating the very problem the mopping was supposed to solve. If the floor dries quickly, the problem is minimized.</p>
<p>Stains should be removed as soon as they occur. A good hardwood floor with proper surface treatment will resist coffee, tea and other common kitchen spills well. But hot coffee can easily melt through wax and before long make its way into small grooves where it's nearly impossible to get out. Stronger compounds, like grease and acid-containing tomato juice can be even larger problems. Wipe them up completely and your hardwood floor will last for years.</p>
<p>Avoid scraping furniture over hardwood floors. Make the extra effort to lift it up before moving sideways. Once a scratch is made in the surface of hardwood, the only way to get it out is to sand it out and refinish, or use wood putty and stain to cover it up. Felt on table and couch legs will help eliminate the problem before it can occur.</p>
<p>Excess sunlight will, over time, fade even the best hardwood floors. Keeping curtains closed or having a diffuser curtain will cut down the incident UV that does the damage. Using louvres rather than blinds allows you to direct the sunlight up and away from the floor, bouncing it off the walls and ceiling. That drastically cuts down on any UV radiation reaching the floor.</p>
<p>Treat the floor regularly with a protective compound made especially for hardwood floors. That will help deflect sunlight and provide partial protection against stains and scratches.</p>
<p>Brazilian Walnut or Teak, American Oak and other hardwood floor materials will often be sold with as long as 50-year warranties. But that covers only major defects in the plank. Surface scratches, scuff marks and stains can occur in any wood surfaces so they're not covered. Keep problems at bay as long as possible by the proper care and treatment of your hardwood floors.</p>
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		<title>DIY  Flooring – Flooring Hits the Ceiling</title>
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		<pubDate>Mon, 31 Jan 2011 01:43:11 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Robert Mccormack</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[DIY Flooring - Flooring Hits the Ceiling]]></category>
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<h2>DIY  Flooring – Flooring Hits the Ceiling</h2>
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<p>Never before have there been so many choices for fine flooring at affordable prices. In days past, vinyl was everywhere. It wore well and cost little. Ceramic moved in because it lasted forever and looked great, while costing only a small sum more. Today, everything is on the table, er, on the floor.<br />
<!-- <img align="right" style="padding:5px;" src="http://www.installhardwoodfloortips.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/01/Flooring-Ceiling.jpg" alt="" title="Flooring Ceiling" width="225" height="152" class="alignnone size-full wp-image-2275" /> --><br />
Hardwoods, while still pricey, are more durable and cost-effective than ever. Whether the desired choice is a fine Brazilian Walnut or an outstanding Australian Cypress, a hardwood floor is within most budgets today. Given that, with proper care, it can last 50 years or more, this makes for a great long-term investment. Hardwoods provide great wear and look beautiful.<br />
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But if hardwoods are a bit of a stretch financially, or the care required is a little more than desired, laminates make for another excellent option. With faux wood or even ceramic surfaces, they look great. Thanks to a strong four-layer construction, they're highly durable, too. Per-square-foot costs for laminates are much less than hardwoods and they're ultra-easy to install.</p>
<p>Ceramic is still a favorite among many, and for valid reasons. They provide a rich, cheery look and can last for decades or longer. Porcelain is among the up-and-coming winners in the ceramic race because of their strong support combined with an elegant appearance.</p>
<p>Concrete used to be reserved for the basement. Today, it can be found in the bathroom, kitchen... anywhere. Surface effects create colorful flooring that can emulate marble or tile. It's low cost and looks great.</p>
<p>Carpet is still a first-rate choice for numerous applications. There are a half-dozen basic types to choose from - flatweave, cut pile and others - covering hundreds of styles and designs. Everything from a simple throw or area rug to full-room coverage can be relatively inexpensive, but long lasting and beautiful.</p>
<p>What's under the floor is getting more attention these days, too.</p>
<p>Heating systems have come down in price and risen in efficiency. Whether electric mesh or radiant tubing, they keep the floor warm and help to raise the temperature of the room as well. That helps offset the need for other room heating methods, so the option is less expensive to run than it might appear.</p>
<p>Sub-floors are getting more notice as floors age and require repair. These days they are as likely to be concrete as the traditional plywood. Even planking has improved, though, where that is used. Better wood treatments help reduce the odds of insect invasion and water damage.</p>
<p>If you plan to install tile, what's underneath will get looked, as well. Laying it down requires good preparation, so making sure the sub-flooring is strong and super-flat is a necessity.</p>
<p>Then there is the need to take care of it all after installation.</p>
<p>There's no getting around the fact that every type of flooring requires some care. Carpets need to be cleaned, especially on those occasions when something spills. Ceramic and laminates need to be mopped. Hardwoods require good care, lest they become dull and scratched from small grit dragged over the surface. Some minor tile cracks, carpet burn repairs and laminate scratches can require will call for more extensive efforts.</p>
<p>But at the end of the day or the decade, you can look back and look down. Even though it's underfoot, flooring can make or break the look and use of a room. Selecting well and keeping it in good shape will reward the cost and effort many times over.</p>
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		<title>DIY &#8211; Flooring &#8211; Flooring Selection Guidelines</title>
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		<pubDate>Mon, 31 Jan 2011 01:36:17 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Robert Mccormack</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[DIY Flooring Flooring Selection Guidelines]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[DIY - Flooring - Flooring Selection Guidelines]]></category>

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<h2>DIY - Flooring - Flooring Selection Guidelines</h2>
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<p>Choosing a type of flooring can be a daunting task. There are several varieties - wood, ceramic, stone, vinyl, carpeting and many specialty materials. Within each broad category, there are literally hundreds of choices. Fortunately, narrowing them down is a simple matter of attending to a few basic guidelines.<br />
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For most, especially do-it-yourselfers who are strongly motivated to save money, budget is the first consideration. </p>
<p>Carpet is often the least expensive option, but there are many low-cost vinyl floorings that will allow homeowners to pinch pennies as well. The difficulty here is that you often get what, and no more than, you pay for. Cheap carpet doesn't just look cheap, it is cheap, this means poor quality. Ditto vinyl.<br />
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That means that many desirable qualities like durability and ease of cleaning are often absent. If the material has to be replaced every couple of years is it worth the price? If you have to spend inordinate amounts of time cleaning carpet with low stain-resistance, are you really saving much? The answers will depend, of course, on individual circumstances, including application. Some areas, such as basements, may not warrant more expensive options.</p>
<p>Hardwood is fairly expensive, but it has excellent durability, is easy to care for and looks outstanding. But not everyone can afford Brazilian Teak or Chinese Cherry. One option is a laminate. They can often be quite attractive and they last for years. Their wear characteristics aren't quite as good as hardwoods, which can easily last 50 years if well cared for. But they do quite well and they're pleasant to walk on.</p>
<p>If investigating a laminate, look for the AC rating. These are assigned based on careful testing and represent the durability of the material, resistance to staining and scratching, and other measures. AC 1 laminates are suitable for moderate traffic areas, while AC 3 will stand up better to heavy use. The higher the better, but AC 5 is generally only needed and used in public buildings.</p>
<p>Ceramics run the gamut from cheap tile to highly expensive. One difference is how durable the tiles are. All ceramics have very hard surfaces, but some tiles are more brittle than others. That means that, under normal use, they are more likely to crack. If a tile has to be replaced often, which is costly and time consuming, it might be worthwhile to spend a little more up front.</p>
<p>Stone tends to be on the more expensive end of the choices, but of course it may well outlast the house. Many are removed from old houses being torn down and re-used elsewhere. If you're looking for something stylish and ultra-durable, a good sandstone or slate might be just the thing. With modern treatments they're generally stain resistant and can be easy to care for.</p>
<p>One of the least expensive, but today very stylish choices is concrete. Once relegated to basements, with modern surface effects they can be stained with a variety of colors and designs. They can emulate marble, stone or even wood. They clean easy and, of course, will last for decades without cracking. That makes them great for any area.</p>
<p>Consider your budget, wear needs and potential traffic, and throw in your esthetic desires. Very quickly, you'll be able to narrow the choices.</p>
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		<title>DIY Flooring Hardwood Floors</title>
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		<pubDate>Thu, 27 Jan 2011 01:30:06 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Robert Mccormack</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[DIY Flooring Hardwood Flooring Types]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[DIY Flooring Hardwood Floors]]></category>

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<h2>DIY Flooring Hardwood Floors</h2>
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Hardwood floors are popular for good reasons. They're durable, attractive and easy to care for.<br />
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Hardwood floors can last a hundred years or more with proper care. Many modern manufacturers feel comfortable giving a 50-year warranty on the hardwood flooring they sell. Their confidence is justified. Look at homes from the turn of the 20th century that have been well-maintained and you might well see the original flooring.<br />
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One of the major reasons for this is that the term hardwood floor exactly describes what the material is: hard wood, very hard wood. Brazilian Teak, Walnut, Mahogany, Cherry and many other flooring materials are made from trees with extremely strong and dense fibers. They stand up well to walking, vacuuming where the rotation brushes are often left on and many other forms of daily punishment.</p>
<p>But durability is only one good reason that hardwood floors are so popular, and perhaps not the most significant reason. Hardwood floors are beautiful. Those same trees that offer such long-lasting material are not just attractive while growing. They form the base of flooring material that is esthetically pleasing to nearly everyone.</p>
<p>They appeal to the senses of sight and touch. Whether it's the dark, soothing brown of a fine Mahogany or the lighter look of Maple, they show color and finish that will dress up any home. The grain lends a flair to any floor design while evoking hints of nature that invites walking on. They may have the rich, sensual look of a deep red Cherry or convey a happy mood from a light Ash.</p>
<p>Hardwood floors are also easy to care for.</p>
<p>Certainly scratches, wear on veneer and other problems can occur with even the hardest of hardwood floors. But no other material allows for sanding, refinishing, crack repair and other fix-it methods like hardwood flooring.</p>
<p>Even everyday care is simplicity itself. Often a little swipe with a cloth dustmop is enough. Spills are easy to remove, thanks to the fine wax or polyurethane finishes applied to hardwood floors. Stains are rare on a properly finished hardwood floor, but when they occur they can often be bleached out, sanded out or covered over with a fresh coat of wood stain.</p>
<p>Hardwood floors are not without their potential downsides, of course. They are more expensive up front than many other options. They are subject to expansion and contraction that can reveal poor installation or even lead to cracking. They can readily look shabby if not properly maintained.</p>
<p>But on balance, those who want a long-lasting, beautiful flooring will often opt for hardwood flooring for one very good reason. It's simply outstanding.</p>
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		<title>DIY  Flooring Hardwood Flooring Types</title>
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		<comments>http://www.installhardwoodfloortips.com/diy-flooring-hardwood-flooring-types/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 27 Jan 2011 01:27:17 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Robert Mccormack</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[DIY Flooring Hardwood Flooring Types]]></category>

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<h2>DIY  Flooring Hardwood Flooring Types</h2>
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<p>Hardwood floors are among the most beautiful and durable of flooring materials. But there are so many kinds it can be difficult to choose one.</p>
<p>The first criterion is whether to elect to get pre-finished or unfinished hardwood.</p>
<p>In days past, unfinished was definitely the way to go. It was easier to select a type of hardwood, install it and stain or finish it with stain or lacquer to optimize appearance and wear. </p>
<p>It was also generally less expensive to get unfinished hardwood flooring, even adding in the cost of staining or lacquering. The price difference was so great that getting unfinished hardwood, then exerting a little effort was a bargain on balance. No more. Unfinished is still often less expensive, but the difference is smaller than in the past.</p>
<p>Pre-finished hardwood has many advantages, too. When re-flooring an existing space, or flooring a new room addition, there's no smell or mess. Hammer in some planks and you're done. Ok, it's not quite that easy. But it's decidedly easier than sanding, staining and varnishing. It's definitely gentler on the lungs and eyes.</p>
<p>Which to choose comes down to weighing costs against budget, and the amount of free time and skill or desire you have for this type of project.</p>
<p>But, you still have to select the specific hardwood desired. What's available? Today, the choices of hardwood are legion. They come from around the world - Brazil, China, Australia, the U.S. and elsewhere.</p>
<p>Bamboo is one of the more interesting options. Not technically a wood, it's still woody and very hard, when correctly processed. It has a delicate yellow-brown color that is perfect for certain decorating schemes. It's also on the lower end of per square foot hardwood flooring prices typically around $5 per sq ft.</p>
<p>On the opposite end of the cost scale is Brazilian Walnut. Running up to $13 per sq ft, this rich-looking hardwood comes in a range of color shades. It may be a lighter brown, resembling the shell of the nut that everyone is familiar with. Or, it may run to darker shades. Though more expensive, it provides an extremely hard surface, which is great for long wear but can make for a more difficult installation.</p>
<p>Mahogany resides in the mid-range of the cost scale, but there's nothing middling about the look. This is ultra-beautiful hardwood flooring. Reddish-brown, it has a rich, dark grain and will stand up to heavy use for decades. </p>
<p>Red Oak is a favorite with many do-it-yourselfers. It comes in a variety of widths and is available at the lower end of the price scale. Yet it yields an extremely strong and durable surface. Finished properly, it will create a floor that is as beautiful as any.</p>
<p>On the lighter side, both in price and color, several varieties of Ash can cost as little as $3 per square foot. Less hard than other woods, it gives a great knotty look. Rustic Ash is one variation and for rooms where an extremely natural look is desired, this is a good choice.</p>
<p>Several woods, of these types and others, are available in distressed, pre-used and other forms. That gives yet another dimension along which to judge a wood. If you want that old, lived-in look, but still need a wood that will stand up for years and years, this may be the way to go.</p>
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		<title>DIY Flooring Laminates</title>
		<link>http://www.installhardwoodfloortips.com/diy-flooring-laminates/</link>
		<comments>http://www.installhardwoodfloortips.com/diy-flooring-laminates/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 18 Jan 2011 02:09:17 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Robert Mccormack</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[DIY Flooring Laminates]]></category>

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<h2>DIY Flooring Laminates</h2>
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<p>Laminated floors were once the poor man's option. Made of cheap wood layered over plywood, they looked as cheap as they were. No longer. Laminates are now stylish, durable and yet still relatively inexpensive. They can emulate hardwood, ceramic and other forms of flooring, such as natural stone.</p>
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<p>A laminate is constructed from layers. In the case of laminated flooring, there are typically four: bottom, core, design and protective.</p>
<p>The bottom layer in a good laminate is Melamine, a type of molded plastic made from resin. It is heat resistant and will support high pressures. Some cheaper laminates use a paper backing, but those don't offer the same degree of support.</p>
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<p>On top of that is laid a core, usually made of fiber board. Like pressed wood, it's inexpensive, but very strong and still somewhat elastic. That makes for a more comfortable floor. It's designed with an interlocking geometry, similar to the tongue-and-groove of hardwood flooring. That provides additional stability and support.</p>
<p>The next layer up is the design layer, where the artist displays his creativity. Design layers can resemble the grain in fine wood or the rich look of a good ceramic. Colors and patterns are available that will keep anyone searching for laminated flooring busy for hours.</p>
<p>Uppermost is the protective material applied to the design layer in order to keep moisture at bay and prevent deep scuffing and scrapes. As with any floor, those can all occur. But having a good protective layer prevents them from moving downward. Being kept on the surface makes them easy to clean off or repair without permanent damage to the floor.</p>
<p>Laminates can be used anywhere in the home, but they're especially good for certain applications.</p>
<p>Have a kitchen that cries out for hardwood? Great, but it will be expensive and can be damaged by hot grease, dropped pans and other common problems. A laminate will be less expensive, easier to repair and still look outstanding.</p>
<p>Thinking of wood or ceramic for the bathroom? Either would work well. But laminates are more water resistant than wood and clean up easier than the grout between ceramic tiles. They provide a strong, softer surface and will be a little less costly to install.</p>
<p>Laminates usually come in planks, so they can be laid down like wood. With a several inch-wide, three-foot plank you can cover a floor very quickly. When done right, the interlocking mechanism keeps the boards from moving and the underlayer and core will minimize the possibility of squeaks.</p>
</p>
<p>Laminates are easy to keep free of dust, since they stand up well to vacuuming and can be easily wet mopped. That reduces dust mites, pet dander and other potential allergens, making laminated flooring a very healthy option.</p>
<p>At the same time, the surface is highly stain resistant so it will work well in the kitchen or bathroom where things tend to fall onto the floor. Anything that does is easily wiped up with little risk of soaking in.</p>
<p>There are hundreds of laminate floor options available. Look into them when you consider any flooring material.</p>
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		<title>DIY Flooring How to Install Tile</title>
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		<comments>http://www.installhardwoodfloortips.com/diy-flooring-how-to-install-tile/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 18 Jan 2011 02:06:50 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Robert Mccormack</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[DIY Flooring How to Install Tile]]></category>

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<h2>Walnut Hardwood Flooring</h2>
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The exact procedures for installing tile will, of course, differ from one type to the next. But there are several things in common between them.</p>
<p><strong>Preparation</strong><br />
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As with any do-it-yourself project around the home, preparation is often 80% of the effort. That's true in spades where installing a tile floor is the project. Laying down the tile itself is simple. Getting ready takes some effort.<br />
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For an existing floor, all the material has to be completely and cleanly removed. Old wood, previous tile, vinyl, whatever it happened to be have to be chipped, chiseled or stripped off.</p>
<p>Any sub-floor problems have to be addressed at this stage. Even the best tile with the most careful placement will be uneven if the plywood underneath sags or has holes. Any moisture that has collected has to be dried and any mildew removed. If left down, the problem will only continue to expand beneath the tile, leading to early cracking.</p>
<p>Edges are important, too. Professional-looking results can only be achieved if the job is finished properly. That's impossible if there is any remaining grout, partial tiles or other elements left over from the previous floor.</p>
<p>Even brand new floors installed for the first time say in a new room addition project or a basement that has never had flooring have to be prepared. Ensure that any concrete is perfectly level. Any gaps will cause tile to crack as pressure is applied from walking.</p>
<p>Some concrete floors will require a sub-floor of plywood, pressboard, cork or other material in order to make the surface ready to receive tile.</p>
<p><strong>Installation</strong></p>
<p>Once the floor is well-prepared, the rest of the job will go quickly. Read the instructions that came with the tile. They'll tell you something like the following...</p>
<p>Measure the floor and calculate how many tiles will be needed, and whether partial tiles will be needed around the edges. They usually will. It's optional at this stage whether partial tiles will go around only one edge or the floor will be laid symmetrically with partial tiles all around.</p>
<p>Test any tiles first by laying several down without any adhesive. Get comfortable with the tongue-and-groove system, if the tiles are designed that way. If they have flat edges, practice laying them down straight without grout.</p>
<p>Then, remove the backing from tiles with pre-applied adhesive and lay them down, starting at one edge if you plan partial tiles along only part of the perimeter. If you plan partial tiles around the entire floor, start in the middle and work out.</p>
<p>For tiles with no tongue and groove system, it can be helpful to lay down tiles without adhesive and use a thick pencil to make lines between them.</p>
<p>For tiles with no backing, apply tile adhesive to the back and press the tile in place. Before it sets, quickly use a long straight edge (drafting T-squares work well for this) and keep all tiles along one line. Then ensure they're straight in a perpendicular direction. Once dried in place (usually overnight), use a caulking gun to spread a bead of grout between the tiles and quickly wipe off any excess before it dries.</p>
<p>Repeat until you near the edge. Use a tile cutting tool to make any partial tiles needed around the perimeter. Lay them in the same way, leaving a thin space for expansion. About 1/8 inch is usually good, but this will vary with climate.</p>
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		<title>DIY  Flooring Specialized Floor Materials</title>
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		<comments>http://www.installhardwoodfloortips.com/diy-flooring-specialized-floor-materials/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 12 Jan 2011 04:03:25 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Robert Mccormack</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[DIY Flooring Specialized Floor Materials]]></category>

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<h2>DIY  Flooring Specialized Floor Materials</h2>
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Wood, ceramic and vinyl are highly popular flooring materials. But there are many other options available, some as old as building itself, others representing the latest in high-tech materials science.</p>
<p>Sandstone<br />
<!--<img align="right" style="padding:5px" src="http://www.installhardwoodfloortips.com/thumb225_152/8.jpg" />--><br />
Sandstone has been used in buildings for thousands of years. In ancient structures it often formed sturdy walls that lasted for centuries or longer. Today, used as flooring, sandstone tiles can provide that old-world look yet stand up to modern punishment. Sandstone has an earthy tone that is attractive and natural looking. At the same time, it provides a durable surface that is easy to care for.<br />
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Travertine</p>
<p>Travertine is another material that has been in use for millennia. Yet, as a material for floors in modern homes, its use is only now being rediscovered. This natural stone was used in the construction of the Roman Coliseum. Yet, modern homes look both classic and up-to-date with travertine floors.</p>
<p>Similar to marble, though typically with less sheen, travertine provides an ultra-durable surface that looks great. It forms over thousands of years from high pressure acting on materials that occur naturally in subterranean springs and underground rivers. But, thanks to modern manufacturing techniques, you can have a travertine floor anytime.</p>
<p>Smooth, dense and possessed of a natural cream color, your home can have that travertine touch of Italy whenever you choose.</p>
<p>Slate</p>
<p>Slate is another natural stone material, one that contains a mixture of quartz, mica and other compounds. Because of the intense heat and pressure that form it in continental coastlines, it has already endured more punishment than the kids could ever give it. It will last literally forever.</p>
<p>But, not only is it durable, it's easy to care for. The surface resists stains well. It's also naturally non-slip. Even smooth slate flooring has micro-edges that help prevent falls.</p>
<p>Last, but far from least, slate is universally recognized as a rich, beautiful flooring material. Its dark, sensual color provides a touch of elegance wherever it's used.</p>
<p>Porcelain</p>
<p>More modern in origin, porcelain is ever popular. In the West, techniques for forming it into flooring material developed relatively recently in historic terms. The 18th century saw considerable advances in its manufacture. But as a home flooring material it is right up-to-date.</p>
<p>Hard, ultra-easy to clean and available in dozens of colors, porcelain can be used in a uniform design or a mosaic. A solid, pink cream can make for a bathroom that is soft looking and elegant. A multi-colored mosaic of porcelain tiles creates a cheery look limited only by the imagination of the designer.</p>
<p>Cork</p>
<p>While cork has been used for centuries for wine stoppers, its introduction to the flooring world is relatively recent. Thanks to modern hardening and reprocessing methods, it can form a floor material that is ideal.</p>
<p>Even hardened to become highly durable, cork retains its elasticity. That gives the floor a softer feel. Because of its porous nature, it's also excellent at soaking up sound. But, thanks to a natural waxy compound called Suberin, it is highly moisture resistant. That makes it easy to clean and resistant to mildew.</p>
<p>Investigate some alternative flooring materials. There's no such thing as too many choices where your home design efforts are concerned.</p>
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		<title>DIY Flooring Concrete, Not Just Durable</title>
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		<pubDate>Wed, 05 Jan 2011 09:38:20 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Robert Mccormack</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[DIY Flooring Concrete, Not Just Durable]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[DIY Flooring Concrete]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Not Just Durable]]></category>

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<h2>DIY Flooring Concrete, Not Just Durable</h2>
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Concrete flooring is a traditional option in basements. It may have been an extension of the original foundation, or poured because it provides an ultra-durable surface for a basement laundry room, kids playroom or other use. But concrete flooring has come out of hiding, and not only because it wears like, well, concrete.<br />
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Concrete floors can be finished with an extremely smooth, polished surface. Since they stand up to just about anything, they're great for areas that track in snow, mud, sand and other outdoor materials. But they can also be highly attractive.<br />
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Modern techniques can turn that plain gray floor into something that looks like marble, slate or highly polished ceramic. Acids designed to react with the lime in concrete can etch the surface. They blend in to produce a veined look or a geometric design that can simulate marble or tile. Dyes mixed with or paints applied later can turn that surface into any color or any painted design that the homeowner wants.</p>
<p>The metallic salts used prepares the top layer, then acid in a chemical stain reacts with the lime deposits in the concrete. That creates a color or surface effect that can cover a wide range of choices. But, take care, the effects are permanent. Re-doing it would require removing a considerable portion of the surface, which is usually prohibitively expensive.</p>
<p>Even adding the cost of that finishing job, the total price can be much lower than other options. Hardwood floors are durable and beautiful, but they can run $6-$10 per square foot or more. Concrete, even finished, can easily be less than half that. And, when the job is done there are no tell-tale seams.</p>
<p>Surface effects or custom painted floors are durable and super easy to clean. Dirt mops up easily. With the exception of certain acids, it's very difficult to stain them. Automotive oil will, of course. But that's rarely a problem where concrete is used in the home outside the garage. Even that can be prevented with the proper surface treatment.</p>
<p>Concrete floors can even be a healthier alternative to carpets, throw rugs and the like. Dust cleans up easily and doesn't stay trapped in the surface. That reduces dust mites. Other allergens such as pollen, pet dander and even smoke residue can be easily eliminated. Concrete can even be wiped with a mild disinfectant such as bleach or an anti-fungal liquid to reduce the chances even further.</p>
<p>Keep in mind, though, that even treated concrete surfaces can crack. Since they're colored or contain surface effects, the crack may not show as prominently. But they can still provide a home for moisture and hence mildew. As always, it's still important to keep the concrete surface dry. A short-term exposure from snow, mopping and so forth is unimportant. But water that stays down for days or weeks can lead to problems.</p>
<p>Also, staining isn't completely predictable. Because of variations in lime content, temperature and other factors, the results can differ slightly from what was envisioned.</p>
<p>But these minor issues aside, concrete flooring can be one of the best options available for certain applications.</p>
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